Sharp-tail and Huns in Montana and North Dakota September 2024

After a weekend of hunt tests with KlM-GNA, we headed off to Montana and North Dakota to kick off our 2023-24 hunting season chasing Sharp-tailed Grouse and Hungarian Partridge. We headed to north east Montana first, where we ran into other upland friends of ours: Logan, Nick, Bill, and Mario. It was our first time hunting this place but luckily good cover was not hard to find. We found a lot of grouse, and then decided to focus more on huns toward the end of our time in the Big Sky state. The highlights of the Montana leg of this trip for me were:

  1. Watching Gretchen shoot her first Montana bird over a point by her young dog Archer.

  2. Shooting two grouse over Archer points. He hunted a good bit last season but was very young so I didn’t really shoot any pointed birds over him last year that I can remember.

  3. Watching Anja do some of her best work on two walks, despite being unable to reward her as well as I should have due to poor shooting.

We left Montana and headed to north west North Dakota for a few more days of hunting. There we met up with Bobbe Carney, who bred Gretchen’s first KlM, Ebbi, and who has been featured previously on the podcast. Bobbe was fresh off judging a breed show for a second weekend of hunt tests for the breed club and rolled into town with her three dogs, Yana, Cate, and the youngster Hank. We had four pretty incredible days of hunting. The bird numbers where we were hunting this year were pretty awesome and there seemed to be minimal hunting pressure. Though we have been to this area that past few years, we hunting almost all new covers this time, adding to our list of pins in OnX for future seasons. On this leg of the trip the hunts that really stick out in my mind are:

  1. Hunting a new spot with Gretchen where we both shot birds over Aura’s points. One of the birds I shot on that walk had to be a 60 yard shot. When I touched off the trigger I sort of couldn’t believe it when the bird fell out of the sky. I had broken a wing and Aura got to make a nice long blind retrieve of that bird.

  2. A hunt with Anja where she had a ton of points but the birds kept getting up before I could get in shooting range. I could tell she was getting frustrated but luckily I was able to get one grouse and one hun for her on that walk. As a side note, we found a lot of huns in habitat that was not the normal stuff (field edges and shelter belts). We were finding them in the middle of shortgrass prairie. I suppose this is indicative of how good the populations were this year that we were finding them in places like that.

My favorite hunt of the trip was on the last day where Aura and I walked a solid 2-3 miles without seeing a thing. She got birdy a bunch but we just couldn’t pin anything down. Then she started tracking furiously and produced a jackrabbit. I shot it but although injured it was still able to run at 3/4 speed. Aura ran it down, grabbed it by the backside (there was no hair on the tail and a tooth gash in right side rump. Rabbits yell and sound almost like infant children. She transferred up to the hare’s neck where she held it tightly until it was dispatched. Then she retrieved it to hand.

I’m not telling this graphic story for any reason other than to explain the dog’s commitment to finding and recovering game. I hear a lot of folks with pointing dogs talk about their dogs pointing birds but not being reliable retrievers. I just think that’s unethical. Losing birds because your dog won’t recover them falls under wanton waste in my opinion. And you can hunt most upland game reasonably well without a dog. So most of the purpose of hunting with a dog is so you can use their nose to find AND RECOVER game. Part of the reason we like these German lines of dogs is because of their desire to hunt and recover game. While the pointing is my favorite part to watch, it takes a backseat in terms of utility for me in comparison to all of the things they do to recover game after the shot.

Right after the our hare coursing event, Aura walked maybe another 20 yards before locking up tight on point. In the same piece of cover that the jackrabbit came out of, she had ended up on the opposite (down wind) side. We found out moments later that a group of about 9 Sharp-tailed grouse had held in that cover throughout that whole rabbit situation including shots, a barking dog, and a yelling hare. I doubled on grouse early in the staggered flush, but was unable to get a third bird out of it because I had put a water bottle in my shell pocket and it was covering my shells. I had winged one of the birds and could see it running so Gretchen sent Ebbi on a retrieve of that bird from the other side of that piece of cover.

We also saw a ton of pheasants (more of them than anything else) on this trip. So hopefully we’ll be able to come back to this area during pheasant season! We also ran into Ron from The Hunting Dog Podcast while we were out there. Bobbe recorded a podcast with him that I’ll be sure to share if/when it’s released.

This was a really wonderful start to our season. Our dogs all did a wonderful job and I think Gretchen shot more birds this trip than her whole season last year. She’s really coming into her own and you can see the confidence and desire really growing in her. Bobbe also commented on the improvement in both her hunting abilities and the dog work this year. So big shoutout to Gretchen for being a badass!

We came home with a 60 quart cooler full of dressed out birds (heads and a wing attached for identification) and we’re working on clearing out the last bit of leftovers from last season to make room for more.

I hope your season is off to a good start! Happy hunting!

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Tick Prevention

Two people I know recently were struck by tickborne illnesses. I don’t know all the details but one seems to be Lyme disease and the other Rocky Mountain spotted fever. Both can be treated with anti-biotics if caught early, but they can both be devastating, even deadly, if left untreated. Tick prevention takes a bit of preparation but can be a relatively simple process and it's well worth your time.

Two step tick prevention plan

My tick prevention plan comes down to two products: permethrin and picaridin.

Permethrin/Pyrethrin is a very old and very safe preventative originally made from chrysanthemums and now mass produced synthetically. It is even allowed to be used inside food production buildings. Permethrin can, like most things, cause acute reactions in certain dogs and people. In most cases, it is overuse (improper dilution, or too much product) that causes the issue. If you spray it on your clothing and that clothing touches your skin before drying, it can be absorbed into your skin and cause headaches, nausea, and chills (ask me how I know). You will notice the same symptoms if overused on your dog. In most cases, thoroughly rinsing with water will resolve the issue. That said, I am not a doctor or a vet. This is not medical advice.

I use a permethrin based monthly topical on my dogs because it is effective and very safe. I just mark the date it is applied on my calendar in my phone so that I can check when it needs to be reapplied.

I purchase this concentrate and then dilute it to be sprayed on my clothes. It is much cheaper this way compared to pre-mixed options. The particular concentrate I buy is 13.3% and needs to be diluted at a ratio of 1oz of concentrate to 16 ounces of water. I have a dedicated spray bottle with measurements right on it to make this quick and simple. Once I mix up a batch in the spray bottle, I thoroughly wet all of my clothes that I will be wearing while out training dogs. This includes tops, bottoms, hats, and socks, as well as boots and gloves. I leave them hanging outside until they dry completely. At that point treated clothes will maintain the protective effect for up to six washings. To be safe, I generally reapply to my clothes monthly (typically 4 washings before reapplication).

When out in the field I typically tuck my pants into my socks and then wear rubber boots. I have a nice pair of leather lined Aigle brand boots that are great when I am doing a lot of walking, but lately I've been enjoying the Lite Boots which are basically rubber boots made out of the same material as Crocs. They are super light and very comfortable. Wearing rubber boots helps cut down on bugs of all types but particularly helps with chiggers. MY shirt is always tucked into my pants as well.

Then I use picaridin on my skin. The lotion form seems to work way better than the spray. Picaridin lasts longer than DEET and is less readily absorbed into the skin.

Any time my dog is in the field I do a tailgate check before putting them back in the kennel. This gives me time to check for injuries, to rinse seeds and other debris from their eyes, and to remove any debris from their coat in addition to checking for ticks. You can also spray permethrin or picaridin on your dog's bedding in their kennel to help with the errant tick that makes it home.

Natural options

If you want to go the more "natural" route, I have also had good luck with Cedarcide and Wondercide which are both products that use plant oils to repel bugs. They are safe for people (including young children) and dogs. The only problem with them is that they are much more oily on your skin and clothes, the smell is very strong, and they need to be reapplied much more frequently.

*This post contains affiliate links, so I may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you. As with every product recommendation listed anywhere on this site, I only recommend things I actually use.

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Environmental Control

One of the least emphasized, but most important, aspects of training is management of your training environment and the motivators within it. To keep it simple, until the dog is correctly performing a task on autopilot, under the required conditions, and to the required standard, you must be able to control the dog or control their access to the competing motivators in the environment. Before going further, let’s define some terms:

  • Environment: everything in the training area besides you and the dog

  • Competing Motivators: things in the environment that compete for the dog’s attention and desire, drawing them away from the desired task

  • Control: Absolute custody and ability to manipulate… not a wish or a hope

  • Desired Behavior: The thing we want/tell the dog to do right now

  • Undesired Behavior: Everything the dog does that is not the desired behavior

Training Environments

Controlled Environments

Early in the process of training a skill it is helpful to remove all competing motivators from your training environment. Essentially, we are training the dog in a “Skinner Box” or aquarium. For most people, this means working in their basement, garage, or backyard where there are not many things competing for the dog’s attention. In this sort of environment the trainer has the ability to add or subtract motivational content as needed. Usually this means we start with an empty space, a dog on a leash, and one thing the dog is trying to work for (food, toy, bird, etc.). The dog performs the desired behavior, usually because I prompt it with the leash to start, and then earns a reward for doing so. We make sure the dog knows the behavior creates a rewarding consequence, and that performing unrequested behaviors does not yield reward. We repeat this until the dog is doing the behavior without any help from me through the use of training equipment or denial of access to reward.

It’s important to note that we want the dog to be able to try things, and have them fail at producing the dog’s desired outcome, here before moving into new environments. We want them moving into more natural or uncontrolled environments already having a relatively well established understanding of things that yield reward and things that don’t. We want them to be fairly certain, through repetition, that going rogue leads to failure. In training terminology this is called, “attrition.”

Accidental reinforcement of undesirable behaviors is the most common cause of failure in training, and no amount of correction or punishment will fix that. At best you will have a dog that learns they can push through your roadblocks. At worst you have a dog that can’t make heads or tails of what they are supposed to do.

It is prior to this phase in training behaviors that we should have already created desire for the motivators that we can offer our dog in training. If we want the dog to do what we ask, we have to be able to show them why they should care about performing the task when there is no obvious value. Then, if I know my dog values what I have to offer them as a reward in early phases of training and they are still checking out regularly, I probably need to provide more reinforcement, or provide it more frequently. Pay the dog a lot for a little bit of effort at first. Then over time, they get paid less for more and more work.

Transitional Environments

Next we move into more natural training environments but maintain the ability to control the dog and/or the competing motivators. In field work, for example, I might have ability to control when a bird flies (using launchers) or have a check cord on the dog to disable their ability to chase if they bump the bird, or (usually) both. When I am certain that the dog understands the rules of the game in this environment are the same as in the aquarium, then we begin to remove controls. In this phase I will still always have control of the dog or control of the competing motivators in the environment.

Natural Environments

For most people natural environments still allow for the use of training equipment. But for those participating in tests or trials, these places usually require your dog to run without equipment on. We need to have proofed the dog against all possible competing motivators prior to having an expectation that the dog will perform well under such circumstances. Training for these instances require carefully planning out your training area and control of motivators because you are no longer able to control the dog. Some behaviors cannot be “proofed” against and will always require some amount of management.  This is especially true of elicited behaviors that support the dog for the task for which it has been selectively bred. This tendency is called “instinctive drift” and has been in the scientific literature on applied behavior analysis for a long time. 

Control of Motivators

The front 70% of training work is done in controlled and transitional training environments. If done properly, the back 30% mostly takes care of itself. I am certain that most of the people reading this have seen, or experienced themselves, a dog that did not have the requisite preparation to be performing a certain task in a certain environment. The best examples I can think of:

  • The dog that was not trained on stop to flush and stop to shot as isolated exercises prior to attempting them in the field on liberated birds. No check cord on the dog, no launcher for the bird… This is a recipe for teaching your pointer to be a flusher. And I have seen plenty of dogs run right through the highest levels on a remote collar. Once a dog knows that discomfort does not imply injury, you would be surprised what a driven dog is willing to endure to get what they want.

  • The dog being told to enter the water for a blind or duck search, or a resend on duck search, that has never been taught that they must enter the water (through the use of pressure). No leash on the dog, no e-collar on the dog (or no practice with its use for a send away), and no waders on the handler… All you are doing is teaching your dog they are allowed to refuse.

  • On a dragged game track my dog stops tracking, lifts their head up and goes into a field search. They find the dragged game despite not tracking. So in the future, they see no need to track, since they can search and get the same result.

Curt (handled by Zach) starting a track on a slip lead at the VJP test. Curt got a very good tracking score, and very good search score because he’d never been allowed to succeed by doing the wrong type of seeking behavior in a given context. The consistent use of equipment, body language cues, and the command used inform the dog of what they are supposed to do. Curt was never allowed to succeed by doing anything but tracking when told to track, so when told to track, he does what has always worked for him in the past.

Prior to starting any training session you should first think of all the ways that it could go wrong and then figure out what you can do to mitigate that problem. So instead of going home frustrated, using those above examples again we can see how training is used to explain to the dog what they are supposed to do and why they get (or don’t get) the outcome they want:

  • If I practiced with the dog that a flush is a cue to stop, and a shot is a cue to stop, and then I go into the field and can control when a flush happens, as well as reinforce the need to stop either with a remote collar or a check cord, then I am able to set up a training scenario where the dog experiences loss of access to reward when they mishandle a bird. Now I can show the dog the relevance in those trained behaviors because they now have intrinsic value to the dog since they lead to possession of a bird. I have control of the dog and the reward.

  • If I practiced force to pile and water force with my dog, then I can compel them into the water and I get to stay dry. Early on, I can reward them very quickly for entering the water by throwing a duck so it lands in front of them after taking just a few steps into the water. I have control of the dog and the reward.

  • If I practiced the dragged game track with a lead on the dog, I can tuck it under one front leg so that the angle of leash pressure encourages the head to go down to the ground. If I know the exact track and pay attention to the wind, I can have a very good understanding of whether my dog is on the track or not, and restrict their ability to advance in the exercise if they are off track or try to switch to searching instead. Later, if I have a helper who laid the track for me, I can radio to them, if my off leash dog starts searching instead of tracking, to pick up the game used to create the track so the dog cannot succeed on that attempt. I have control of the dog, or the reward.

Pay close attention to your training environments and the competing motivators in them. Besides the understanding of core skills, the key to successful training is effective motivation for desirable behavior. We want the dog to engage in trial and error, but we don’t want to engage in trial and error. Any time your dog creates an outcome to a training setup that you don’t want, it means you failed to think through and adequately address all possibilities for failure.

In dog training your job is to stay unf*cked!

-Bart Bellon

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Post Water Work Care

Disclosure: I only recommend products I use myself and all opinions expressed here are my own. This post contains affiliate links. Purchasing products using these links earns me a small commission at no cost to you.

It’s water work season in Maryland. All of the A-litter puppies from Wildblumen Kennels have passed their VJP tests, and our NAVHDA chapter spring test is in two weeks. So we are now looking forward to force fetch. Once complete we can start building their duck searches. When your dog is in the water often, extra care is sometimes needed to help make sure they don’t develop issues related to moisture like yeast infections.

My dog Aura has a lot of thick hair around her ear canals, and on her feet. These hold moisture and create an ideal environment for bacteria to grow. So some aftercare when she comes out of the water is important to mitigate those things. The same is true when we’re hunting anywhere that is moist (like all woodcock covers and any hunting in the snow or after a rain). First and foremost, drying your dog off before putting them back in the kennel is a must. But sometimes, that’s not enough.

Aura entering the water on a duck search. Photo credit: Erik Raynes

The reproductive vet that Gretchen uses for her kennel recommended a recipe for ear cleaner that does a great job of clearing up yeast issues and preventing them as well:

Ingredients and a finished bottle of the solution. Tequila is not required but is helpful, particularly after a rough training session.

We mix this right in condiment bottles that work really well for ear cleaner. Since the alcohol or witch hazel come in 16oz containers, I usually just make two bottles at the same time. This solution works well as an ear cleaner but can also be used on the paws and in between the toes. I am not a medical professional, obviously, so use at your own risk.

If your dog has a yeast overgrowth in their ears, using this once a day for a week or two usually clears it up. I also try to use after every time my dog does water work in training as a drying agent and preventative maintenance. The boric acid will not dissolve so be sure to shake up the bottle before each use to get it into suspension. This is all part of our normal post-hunt or post-training grooming that usually includes pulling thorns out of their coats, cleaning seeds out of their eyes, checking for injuries, and cleaning their nail beds. I also use it weekly as part of our normal grooming routine.

I also use a chlorhexidine solution in a paw washer to clean the dog’s feet. This is a good idea to use after any hunt/training as preventative maintenance. I also use this daily, until resolved, if they have a yeast build up in their paws. You only need one ounce per gallon of water for the rinse, so it lasts a very long time.

All of these treatment solutions are very cost effective and work extremely well in my experience. They save me trips to the vet and avoid antibiotics.

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Shaping Hold

This is pre-course homework assignment #3 for the Forced Fetch course that starts in person and online in April 2023. Prior to beginning this work we should have:

  1. conditioned a reward marker so that we can pinpoint moments in time when our dog has done something for which they will be rewarded. That helps them learn more efficiently because they have a signal that marks the precise moment they performed a behavior that earned them a subsequent reward.

  2. acclimated them to being on a back tie (and training table if we are using one) so that we don’t have any mental hang ups or negative feelings about the environment where the beginning stages of training the retrieve will take place.

Now we will begin the process of shaping the “hold” behavior with positive reinforcement. We will use a process called “successive approximation” to gradually alter/increase our criteria for behavior that earns the dog a reward. We can use this concept with any trained skill to take a behavior and break it into much smaller pieces so that our dogs don’t have to make such big mental leaps in training.

The value in teaching behaviors this way, if done correctly, is:

  • The dog believes they invented the behavior. Just like you, if the brilliant idea was your own you think it’s better than if someone else came up it with.

  • It creates a situation where you have an active dog and reactive handler. I want a dog that believes their behavior drives the consequences that occur, and who believes they can manipulate me into giving them what they want. As long as I am careful that they only find success on my terms, my dog shows deep commitment to behaviors I find desirable.

The second bullet point is important. I want the dog to be free to make choices, but I control the consequences. And I want the dog always actively looking for opportunities to earn reward rather than me having to prompt them, or get them fired up, to do things.

Shaping the Hold

Our goal for the last exercise was to have a dog that would stand and make eye contact with us while connected to the back tie. We will begin there, and gradually add new criteria for the dog. So when the dog is on the back tie and making eye contact with us we are going to:

  1. Present the pipe to the dog, close enough to their face that they can touch it with their nose and mark and reward ANY interaction with the pipe (looking at it, touching it with their nose, etc.)

  2. After a number of repetitions, we’ll only mark and reward if the dog actually touches the pipe with their nose/mouth.

  3. At this point the dog should understand the pipe has value and we should see that they pull against the back tie when the pipe is presented. We won’t move the pipe close enough for them to grab it unless they are pulling against the back tie. This is our introduction of a little bit of “struggle” in the exercise. Making them fight through a bit of pressure to complete the task is another way to reinforce the task.

  4. Next, we’ll only mark and reward if the dog actually opens their mouth onto the pipe.

  5. After that, we’ll only mark and reward if the dog actually closes their mouth around the pipe.

  6. Then, we’ll choose to only mark and reward a calm (not chewing) hold on the pipe, so we will wait to mark and reward until the dog’s mouth is still.

  7. Finally, we’ll gradually ask the dog (literally by increasing the time just one second at a time, by withholding our marker and the reward a little longer) to hold the pipe for longer duration.

When we are shaping behaviors it is important that the dog gets rewarded often. A major reason for cutting the goal behavior into such small slices to help ensure we don’t stall out in the middle of a session.

Troubleshooting

If you’ve made it this far you probably have experience with things not going quite as you planned. We have to remember that confusion always precedes learning. Expect each step in the process to take many reps before mastery. As soon as you are getting very rapid, correct responses to a certain phase of the exercise, raise your criteria so your dog doesn’t get stuck at that step believing it is the finished product. You can always take a step backwards in the process if you need to. So don’t be afraid to push the pace. Since at this point we’re only using positive reinforcement to teach this behavior, you don’t have to worry about the ethics of applying compulsion when they are confused.

  • My dog shows no interest in the pipe.

    • You can put some food in your hands and then rub your hands on the pipe so that the pipe smells and tastes a bit like the food.

  • My dog won’t pull against the back tie.

    • You might need to hold the pipe a bit closer to the dog to elicit the pulling, or just wait a bit longer for some frustration to build in the dog. You also might just need more reps at the earlier step building the relevance of the pipe by associating it with reward.

  • My dog won’t stop chewing on the pipe.

    • You can tap the dog on the top of the muzzle gently (like a gentle smack), and then pet them in the same place with the same hand when they begin holding the object calmly.

    • You can gently place your hand over their muzzle to hold it in place, and mark as soon as they are still even for a split second.

  • My dog keeps dropping the pipe BEFORE I use my reward marker.

    • You can simply not mark and reward, pick up the pipe, and try again.

    • You might be extending duration of the hold too quickly.

    • You can try putting a little pressure on the object, by trying to pull it away from the dog, as soon as their mouth is on it. Like a very soft game of tug. This challenge over the object can increase possessiveness and help build the hold.

    • You can mark “Wrong” when the pipe leaves the dog’s mouth and then pick it up and try again. Over time the dog comes to learn that the “Wrong” marker is a “non-reinforcement marker”. This is essentially you telling the dog, “That is not going to earn a reward, so try something else.”

Expect to have to repeat any one of these solutions multiple times before it works. And remember that your dog is supposed to drop the pipe when you give the reward marker, “Yes!”

What’s next?

If you get this far prior to the start of the course you are in great shape to begin the application of pressure in a way that is as least stressful to the dog as possible. If you have not been able to get this far, we will still start you on mouth placements, and as long as you have built up the dog’s motivation for food, it won’t take long for them to associate holding the pipe with earning a reward. So they’ll still be right on track and should have a positive attitude toward the work.

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Training Table and Back Tie Acclimation

This is the second pre-course homework assignment for our force fetch course participants. Everyone in the class will be using a back tie of some kind during early stages of hold and fetch training. If you are using a training table as well, you’ll need to acclimate your dog to that too.

Basically we are trying to condition a positive emotional response to being hooked up to the back tie and to being up on the table. The easiest way to do this is to reward them while they are engaged in these activities. It’s important to note a few things are happening at the same time. Many people think about these different types of associative learning as independent of one another, but both are happening concurrently.

  1. Classical Conditioning: The simplest and most powerful association occurring during this task is that the dog simply connects the physical location to the receipt of food. This is an involuntary, reflexive association. The context elicits a reaction from the dog. If the dog enjoys food, they begin to feel good about being in the location since it is regularly a predictor of the receipt of a resource of value. Simply put: The dog gets automatically excited/happy because, “Good things happen on the back tie or training table.”

  2. Operant Conditioning: This takes the classically conditioned association one step further. This type of conditioning extends the simple association to include the dog’s belief that their behavior within the training scenario is what cause the reward event to occur. This is a learned association, meaning the dog actively chooses to act, rather than involuntarily reacts. The context signals an opportunity for a rewardable discriminate response from the dog. Simply put: The dog thinks, “I can make good things happen by putting myself on/near the back tie or training table.”

Once the dog is showing motivation to be on the back tie and training table, we’ll want to take it a step further and reward micro behaviors that are indicative of a positive emotional state. Namely, we are rewarding eye contact with us, and body language that shows they are feeling confident (standing up and ears forward).

 

Acclimate the dog to the training table

A training table is a helpful piece of equipment for a number of reasons:

  1. It elevates the dog so that you do not have to bend over frequently, saving your back.

  2. It limits your dog’s movement, which limits their options for doing things other than what you want them to do.

That said, it is definitely not necessary to have a training table to teach the retrieve.

If you are using a training table, you’ll break the action of getting up on to the table into multiple smaller behaviors and reward each one as you build up to the complete behavior. You can use directional leash pressure to help the dog understand what direction you want them to move, but we are not trying to force them up onto the table by pulling them up by the leash and collar if we can help it. If your dog still refuses to get up on the table by the time the class starts, you’ll receive additional guidance. Remember, at any stage in this process (or any other trained skill) we can leverage our food rewards to increase the dog’s desire to perform the action. Simply put, if they quit trying, they have chosen to forgo eating until the next time you attempt the exercise. Here are some example steps, but remember you can always slice the complete behavior into smaller chunks to make it easier for the dog to succeed.

  1. Reward any interaction with the table. This could be looking in the direction of the table, sniffing it, etc.

  2. Reward any direct contact with the table. At this step you should see your dog is intentionally touching the table with their body. Most likely it will be with their nose.

  3. Reward any feet being placed on the table. Many dogs will place their front feet on the table a number of times before being willing to jump up on the table.

  4. Reward all four feet being placed on the table. If jumping up on the table seems too difficult for the dog we can add another shorter platform next to the table so the dog jumps on it prior to jumping up on the table. If you have a young dog (under 1.5 years), it would be best not to allow them to jump too much (particularly jumping off the table) as their joints are still developing.

 

Many dogs will need a bit more coaxing to get up on the table initially. You can use leash and collar pressure to compel the behavior of jumping up on the table. Here is an example of practicing that behavior using both compulsion and rewards as reinforcers of the behavior of getting onto an elevated surface.

 

Acclimate the dog to the back tie

While a training table is not required, having some way to restrain the dog during the early phases of teaching the retrieve is very important. The only option you have if you do not use a back tie is to have already taught a very solid static behavior (like a sit or stand stay). Because this course is open to anyone without many prerequisites, it is being taught in a way that doesn’t require much obedience to be done prior to the work.

Here are some example steps, but remember you can always slice the complete behavior into smaller chunks to make it easier for the dog to succeed.

  1. Connect dog’s flat collar to the back tie.

  2. Mark and reward while the dog is connected to the back tie.

  3. Require the dog to pull against the back tie to get the reward.

  4. Mark and reward standing up while the dog is connected to the back tie.

  5. Mark and reward standing up with eye contact while the dog is connected to the back tie.

  6. Mark and reward standing up, with eye contact, and ears forward while the dog is connected to the back tie. You will see the ears forward, indicative of seeking behavior that comes from the anticipation of reward that has been repeatedly given in this context, happen on its own with enough reps if your food is valuable enough to your dog.

Back Tie Options

  1. If your training table has posts on the ends with a cable running between them, you can tie the dog off to one of the posts using a second flat collar that goes around the post and through their flat collar.

  2. You can put your dog on a stake out or a chain gang.

  3. You can tie a leash or check cord to a fence post, lamp post, or tree.

All of them will work just fine, but the more you are able to limit the dog’s movement and body positioning, they easier it is for them to isolate the initial behaviors we’ll be teaching for the retrieve. In particular we are looking to (in order of importance):

  1. Keep the dog from being able to leave the general area (about a two foot square location).

  2. Keep the dog from being able to move forward and backward, or side to side.

  3. Keep the dog facing you.

  4. Keep the dog in a standing position.

 

Behavior and Affect

You’ll notice that we are rewarding the dog, and therefore training them to pay attention to, both behavior they are performing and for body language that is indicative of a certain mental state. We call this “training for behavior and affect” which means capturing and encouraging both a specific action, but also a specific mental state while the dog is performing that action.

 

What’s Next?

In the final installment of pre-course homework for our force fetch course we’ll begin shaping the hold with positive reinforcement. If you can get to that point it sets you up very nicely for the introduction of pressure/force at the first class in a way that will be pretty much stress free to your dog.

 

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Reward Marker Conditioning

For the folks who will be attending our force fetch class, either in person or virtually, you have some homework that you should work on between now and the beginning of class. While it is not a deal breaker, having some tools in place at the first class will make your work go much more smoothly. These exercises are very simple to do.

Conditioning a reward marker

We will be using compulsion in our training of the retrieve, but we will also be using rewards as well. Since we will be asking our dogs to hold something in their mouth, we need them to understand that they have done something correctly even though they can’t actually obtain their reward without stopping the behavior that earned the reward. To be more specific, they can’t eat a treat with a retrieving item in their mouth. This means we will be using an “indirect reward” to reinforce their holding of an object. To do this, we will need to condition a signal that serves as a bridge between the behavior that caused the reward to occur, and the dog’s actual receipt of the reward.

This signal can be anything you want it to be, provided that it meets a few rules:

  1. It is easily perceived by the dog. If, for example, your dog was deaf, you could not use an auditory signal.

  2. It is succinct. If your marker spans a long duration of time it is less precise. Like keeping the shutter on a camera open longer, it blurs the image.

  3. It is easily repeatable. If you have a hard time remembering or using your marker then it cannot serve its purpose.

A very succinct marker functions like a fast shutter on a camera. It draws the dog’s attention to a more precise moment in time.

The most common reward markers people use are the sound created by a clicker, or a short verbal marker like the word “Yes” spoken quickly and in a tone of voice that differs from your normal conversational tone.

When we are “charging” or giving power to our marker, we need to make sure it informs the dog of two things:

  1. It predicts that a reward is coming. So nothing else should happen between your use of the marker and you producing a reward for your dog. We won’t ask them to sit before they take the treat. Nor will we praise them verbally or pet them.

  2. It tells the dog that they are able to exit the behavior they were performing when they heard the marker. So while we are building this association, we need to be sure it includes movement from the dog.

How to Condition the Reward Marker

With your dog on a leash and collar, hold or step on the end of the leash.

  1. Click or say “Yes!” in an excited tone of voice (it doesn’t have to be loud).

  2. Pause for one second.

  3. Reach in your bag and grab a small handful of food. Give it to the dog.

  4. Over time, wait until the dog moves toward you before reaching in the bag to grab the food reward.

Here is an alternative presentation of the reward marker conditioning exercise if you are having a hard time getting your dog to move when they hear the marker.

Place your dog’s meal ration in a treat pouch or ziploc bag. You will be feeding small amounts of that food by hand rather than from a bowl.

  1. Use your marker, and then wait a full second.

  2. Grab a small handful of that food and give it to the dog. They must come to you to get the food, rather than you bringing it to them.

  3. Move away from your dog as they are eating that reward.

  4. As soon as they finish eating the reward, repeat the process starting at step 2.

Repeat this as many times as you can until you feel that your dog is no longer quite as excited about the food as they were at the start. Then stop your training session. Do this once or twice a day, ideally before meals are given to the dog, until you see an obvious reflexive excited response from your dog when they hear the marker.

You’ll know you did this correctly when you say your marker word and your dog, who was relaxed and minding their own business, jumps up from the other side of the room and runs to you for a reward.

The Value of Using Existential Food

One of the reasons positive reinforcement training doesn’t work well for people is that they fail to account for the motivational value of different things in the environment (everything in your training area other than you and the dog). If you are attempting to train a behavior and your dog would rather engage with the environment instead of you, it is because the reward your dog is working for is not valuable enough to compete with the other things in your training area that are drawing their attention away. The solution is to increase the motivational value of your reward so that it is more powerful.

Another reason positive reinforcement training doesn’t work well for people is that they give their reward, which functions as money paid to the dog for working, freely at times outside of training sessions. If my dog is going to get food out of a bowl for doing nothing, why on earth would they spend time and energy working for it? In order for this to work, access to the reward must be contingent on the dog performing a task correctly. If the dog has never felt a sense of loss as a consequence for failure to perform, they cannot compare and contrast the outcomes of their behavior. We need them thinking their behavior and the things they want are connected.

Hunger is a natural motivator that initiates seeking behavior. The dog will begin trying to figure out behaviors that create access to food, if there is a reason to do so. To be clear, we are not “starving the dog”, nor are we purposefully creating a caloric deficit. We are simply placing rules on how the dog gets to access food, and allowing them the freedom of choice to decide if they want to work for it or not. It is your responsibility as your dog’s coach to make sure the behavior you are asking them to do in exchange for food is appropriately challenging for their current level of training.

In the context of this exercise, the dog doesn’t actually have to do anything specific to get food. We are simply forming the pattern that a signal will be followed by food until we have an obvious anticipatory response from the dog that tells us they have formed that association. We will only stop giving them food in this exercise if they stop showing interest in the food. Early on this happens quickly because the dog hasn’t come to understand that they will not be given food “for free” later in the day. After your dog goes for a meal or three without receiving their full ration of food, you will see a switch flip and they will start becoming very invested in training sessions.

Finally, your job as a trainer is to analyze any training exercise for its validity. One of the basic tests is this:

  1. What is the consequence for doing? Does the dog get something meaningful for doing what we want?

  2. What is the consequence for not doing? Does the dog experience some meaningful unwanted outcome for not doing what we want.

If either is missing (a good outcome for desired behavior, or a bad outcome for undesired behavior) then our training will not work. If the bad outcome for not doing is they get food without having to work, just a little while later, then the dog is not experiencing any real loss and will not be motivated to try harder next time.

Once we create an understanding in the dog that their behavior and choices drive the consequences they receive, they feel a sense of empowerment and sovereignty. That is the trick for the trainer to master: you are a communist dictator (rationing and controlling food) but your dog thinks he lives in a capitalist democracy (dog earns food by choosing to perform).

Troubleshooting

  • My dog isn’t food motivated

    • Your dog has probably never had meals be contingent on their behavior. If they miss a meal or two they’ll figure out quickly that they have to play your game in order to eat.

  • I feed raw so I can’t do this

    • Grind it up and roll it into little balls and freeze it. Then work fast. Or switch to kibble while you do this work and then switch back.

  • My dog isn’t showing a reaction to my marker signal

    • You are probably sticking your hand in your treat pocket before (or at the same time) as you give the marker signal. This is called “overshadowing” and will negatively impact your results. Be sure that you give the marker, then pause, then reach for the treat.

Next Steps

Once your dog has a powerful response to your reward marker, you are ready to begin using it to tell your dog you like an action or choice they made. In the context of retrieving, we will use our marker to help us build the dog’s desire to hold an object in their mouth. They will want to perform that action because it generates a reward. I’ll be releasing a post on this in the coming days.

 

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Hunting Clothing MVPs

I wrote a post a few months back on some of my favorite gear items and after reorganizing for the training season, I realized that I missed some of the things I use most often... clothes! So here’s another stab at the stuff I use that is most valuable to me during hunting season. I have no sponsors and earn no income on any of these items. But before we get into the clothing, I forgot one really important piece of gear:

Cable Gangz Tie Out

I started with a 3 dog version of this chain gang and recently got a six dog version. The new 6 dog (and higher) versions have a center ring that allows you to use it as a 3 dog version, or to add extra tension to the cable by adding a third stake in the center when you are running it as a six dog chain gang. I like the cable over a traditional chain gang because the dogs can’t get their toes caught in the cable. And the construction of these is far superior to the ones you can buy on the big name hunting dog equipment sites.

When we stop to get gas or eat lunch, I’ll put the chain gang out and start hooking up dogs and feeding them. By the time the last dog is on the tie out and eating, the first one has finished eating, gone to the bathroom, and is ready to be loaded up in the truck again. It’s safe and it’s a huge time saver for managing multiple dogs.

Whatever size (number of dogs) you get, you can always add an additional two dogs using drops from the company in conjunction with the stakes you use at each end of the main line (if your stakes have a ring to attach to).

 

Crispi Kenai GTX Non-Insulated Boots

I bought these boots at the beginning of the season and have worn them on every single walk in the field that didn’t require rubber boots or waders. These are the Black Ovis exclusive version of the Crispi Nevada Legend GTX boots, but they have full grain leather instead of nubuck.

They are pretty roughed up at this point, since I think I hit about 60 - 80 days in the field this year (including short early morning and after work walks) but they show no signs of slowing down. I have had to treat them with Crispi’s waterproofing cream two or three times, and I re-glued a small part of the rand on one boot where it flexes at the base of my toes. Other than those preventative maintenance tasks, these boots have taken everything I’ve thrown at them.

They are very comfortable, provide fantastic ankle support, do not leak, and the tread still looks new. I’ve worn these boots in the prairies of North Dakota, the mountains and deserts of New Mexico, and in the bottomlands and marshy areas around home. They are stiff enough to handle some mountain terrain, and flexible enough to be comfortable when you’re walking 10+ miles a day.

 

Darn Tough Socks

I bought two pairs of Darn Tough hiking socks a few years ago and quickly they became the only socks I wear. Wool is superior in every way to cotton and synthetics when it comes to your feet. I just wear one pair of appropriate thickness for the temperature. I don’t use liner socks and I have gotten zero blisters, ever, with this combination of sock and boot. I like these ones for most mild weather hunting, these ones for very cold weather, and these ones for hot weather everyday wear. Throw out all your other socks, buy 2-3 pairs of these for hunting and a dozen pairs for everyday wear. They have a lifetime warranty so you just send them back if they get a hole and get them repaired or replaced.

 

Stone Creek Briar Proof Outerwear

I have chaps, bibs, and a jacket from Stone Creek. They are made from the same fabric that Wick used. I never owned that brand but if you look in any forums for field trialers or hound hunters, they speak highly of them. Rather than spend a ton of money on specific hunting gear (nothing against companies like Pyke Gear, LL Bean, Filson, Orvis, etc.) I just buy comfortable hiking pants and layer underneath and over top as needed. In hot weather where I need to walk through cactus or briars, I’ll just wear the chaps. If it’s cool enough, I wear the bibs and the jacket in those same kinds of covers and can walk through just about anything without issue.

 

First Lite & Midway USA Merino Wool

 

I’m not a big fan of some of their affiliations with social media influencers, and I liked MeatEater a lot better back before it was the hunting conglomerate it is today (the old “The Wild Within” days) but I do like their merino wool tops. I wore the Wick Hoody (150g) pretty much every day I hunted the past couple of seasons. If I needed more layers, I’d usually add the Kiln LS Crew (250g) over top. Then put on mid and outer layers as the weather and cover necessitated. Usually that was just a cheap blaze orange dry wick shirt, or a briarproof or windproof outerlayer.

Midway USA sells some decent merino baselayer tops and bottoms seasonally as well. I typically use their heavyweight tops and bottoms during late season waterfowl.

 

Eddie Bauer Guide Pants

 

These are my go to hiking pants. They are cheap when you buy them on sale. The have a bit of stretch, dry quickly, and hold up well. I haven’t tried anything more technical but I haven’t found the need to either. When it’s cold, I’ll put a merino baselayer on underneath, and I’ve never found it to be too hot to wear these pants.

 

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Troubleshooting Pointing

Pointing instincts are driven by genetics. But like all genetically imparted behavioral traits, they can be shaped through training. The entire process of teaching steadiness involves taking an elicited response (the initial instinctual point) and augmenting it through training to include obedience (stand still) through flush, shot, and fall.

I have seen plenty of times with versatile breeds, and particularly with ones who are encouraged to hunt furred game in addition to feathered, that a lot of flushing behavior early on can wreak havoc on pointing abilities. At other times, in a dog whose breeding is trying to balance various traits that are seemingly in conflict with each other, it’s simply that their prey drive outweights their pointing instinct. I also think with the versatile breeds that possession of the game, and everything involved in the process of possessing the game (like chasing) are very big rewards to those dogs. I’ve hunted with plenty of setters and pointers that objectively far better bird finders than my own dogs, but who are happy leave a dead bird on the ground and go find another live one. They have the prey drive to find the birds, but their selective breeding reduced the drive for everything after that. Not our breeds of dogs. Our dogs are meat dogs first, with a heavy emphasis on performance after the shot. They are expected (based on weighting of subjects on breeding suitability tests) to “bring home the bacon” way more than just “find the bacon”. I do think a lot of trainers specializing in the more “Americanized” breeds do a disservice when they frame the training for the continental versatile breeds (and particularly the German breeds, and more particularly the German breeds bred to the German standards) like a English Pointer, English Setter, or American Brittany. There’s a difference between the stables of specialist dogs kept by aristocrats and the one dog that was supposed to do a bit of everything: point, track, retrieve, predator management, and even guard the home.

The typical answer to all problems with bird dogs is “more birds”. Any dog that likes to chase more than point will usually start pointing, through attrition, if they fail to catch birds as a result of chasing. If you live in a place where wild birds are plenty, nobody would argue that this is the best way to develop pointing in a pointing dog. The difficulty with this approach when you live in the mid-atlantic is that wild birds are not plenty here, and chukar currently cost around $10 per bird, and pigeons (especially wild trapped) can be even more. The costs of developing pointing instincts can add up quickly when you are launching $10+ into the air every time your dog takes an extra step or two after entering the scent cone.

Woodcock can be reliably found in the area almost year round and for young dogs just needing to work on pointing instincts, there is no better (or cheaper) option. But it does require some boot leather and gas if you don’t already have a list of go-to covers. The fact of the matter is, most people around here have to make pen raised chukar work, and they don’t have unlimited money with which to do so.

Sika (Alina vd Wildblumen) has not had a ton of bird contacts and the ones that she has had were hunting put and take pheasant in Pennsylvania. Unless you are following the stocking truck around, I don’t feel like the pen raised pheasants act all that different from the wild ones I’ve hunted. The ones that survive stocking day aren’t much less challenging to hunt than wild ones in my experience. That said, I think most people would agree that pheasants can do a lot to mess up a young pointing dog. Maybe 10% of the rooster contacts a dog gets are in the type of cover, and with a bird that behaves in a way, that is conducive to reinforcing the pointing instinct. Add in that the Kleiner Munsterlander are meant to track furred game and MUST be “sichtlaut” (sight loud…bark when I see it) or “spurlaut” (scent loud… bark when I smell it) while doing so, and you have some challenges to overcome as you try to create the appropriate balance and tension between these elicited behaviors.

To add another wrinkle into the situation, Sika is going to be testing in her VJP in about a month. So we are under a deadline to get the pointing good enough that she does well on the test. It is a minimal part of the overall evaluation, but it’s still important.

I am laying all of this background to explain that this dog has a relatively low threshold for frustration (the barking comes easily for her), high prey drive, and low caution, and that these characteristics have not been helped based on her hunting experience so far. It doesn’t take many reps of shooting birds the dog flushes to turn a pointer into a flusher. That said, we can bet on the genetics being there and if we can show her a different way to access the reward she wants, then we can help her behave more appropriately for the task.

I want to be clear that these are not problems. There is nothing wrong with Sika. In every developing young dog our goal in training is to bring out the best in the dog. When we have so many contradictory things we are trying to do we also have to take care to try to balance them, help the dogs understand different contexts where different behaviors are expected, and to bring each skill along with out causing harm to some other skill.

In the video below, Sika is worked through a process of manufacturing a point. This means we take a more obedience based approach to teaching the skill. Our basic process in teaching any obedience skill is:

  1. Show the dog how to do IT

  2. Reward the dog for doing IT right

  3. Correct the dog to help them keep IT right

The basic setup is that we are check cording the dog into birds in launchers. Once we see that she is in the scent cone, evidenced by her moving in a straight line quickly into the wind toward the bird, we physically stop her movement. This is what I mean by “manufacturing point”. The bird is supposed to tell her, instinctually, to stop. But she’s been rewarded enough for doing the opposite that now we are explicitly teaching it. We try to be careful not to engage opposition reflex which is why we stop her and then let the cord go slack, and then pull her back but quickly release the tension on the check cord each time she tries to move in toward the bird. Once she stands still without restraint, the bird is launched and then shot for her.

As you can hear in the video, Sika barks wildly (something we want on rabbits, but not on birds) starting at the flush. This is due to the frustration of the bird getting away, which is now exacerbated by us restraining her. Before we bother coming down on her hard for doing the right thing (barking) in the wrong context (on birds), we explore trying to decrease the frustration in some different ways that might also help us develop the point. Namely, we provide a “direct reward” for the act of standing. We bring the bird back to the dog and give it to them while they are standing still. This means they are experiencing their reward event while still engaged in the behavior that caused the reward to occur. You may also notice that for the last few reps, when I know Sika is aware of the sequence of events, I stop my movement toward the shot bird, and the movement with the shot bird back to Sika, when she is vocalizing. I am trying to help her understand that only certain behavior causes the sequence of events to continue to unfold. This sort of helper behavior being dependent on the dog’s behavior is probably most obvious if you watch decoy work in bite sports. In that video the dog has learned that barking activates the decoy who is working in prey (movement that elicits prey drive from the dog) and the dog ultimately gets rewarded with a bite for the barking behavior. We are also working in prey but trying to get the opposite behavior (stand still and shut up) in exchange for the reward.

Another way to reward a behavior is with an “indirect reward”. This is what we are doing when we send a dog for a retrieve after being steady through wing/shot/fall. They get the retrieve because they were steady, but the actual reward is experienced by the dog after they are no longer engaged in the behavior that produced the reward.

It is important to distinguish the two because they each have benefits and drawbacks. For the purposes of this exercise, the main consideration is that if the dog anticipates an indirect reward (a retrieve) they usually start preemptively breaking because of that anticipation. So if I, instead, reward the dog in place (standing still) at least as frequently as I give them a retrieve, I can create balance between those two actions without having to correct the dog a bunch for moving.

After a few reps of physically stopping her, and bringing the shot bird back to her, Sika begins to stop herself on scent of the bird, and she barks less and less each time because there is no frustration as she no longer perceives she is being held back from getting her reward since her rewards are brought to her. An additional benefit, noted by many trainers I very much enjoy learning from, is that removing the chase after the flush/shot/fall seems to have a positive effect on the staunchness of the pointing. They are usually talking about gradually bringing in pressure to stop the chase, but we can do something similar by just changing where the reward event takes place.

Now everything in dog training has a cost. Physically stopping the dog with the check cord can be enough pressure that it takes the style out of the dog’s pointing. Bringing the birds back to the dog can have a similar effect since it is not as arousing as getting to chase, find, and retrieve the bird. The intensity of any behavior, after all, is largely governed by the dopamine the dog is loading in anticipation for the reward that the behavior generates. Finally, we’re obviously not helping her field search by restraining her with a check cord.

In general it seems to me that if I want to:

  • Increase field search, then I should let the dog knock and chase birds. But this can negatively impact pointing.

  • Increase pointing, then I should let the dog knock birds but not chase them. But this can negatively impact pointing intensity and/or field search depending on how it’s done.

  • Increase pointing intensity, then I should shoot birds for the dog and let them retrieve. But this can negatively impact steadiness after the shot.

  • Increase steadiness after the shot, then I should make the dog stand through the flush and shot, and bring the birds back to the dog. But this can negatively impact pointing intensity.

Another thing to think about is that if I am picking birds up and bringing them to the stationary dog, then that dog may not be getting much practice marking. This isn’t a problem the way I train because we practice training marked retrieves with bumpers as a separate exercise away from field work.

The point being that in the process of tuning one component, another may come out of tune. And part of the art in training is trying to keep all these pieces in tension until you don’t have to anymore. Eventually you a mostly composed dog with enough experience that they manage their arousal, but enough enjoyment in the task that they have lots of style and intensity. It’s hard to work on control and power at the same time.

Our goal here is just to do this enough that she starts pointing on her own, and then we can go back to the typical negative punishment process of popping pigeons when she doesn’t lock up on scent. The last rep in the video shows Sika actually stopping herself, and also a significant reduction in barking. What you don’t see, is what happened on the walk back to the truck after the last bird where Sika locked up tight two or three times on scent where birds had previously been planted!

I think we need one to three more sessions like this to get Sika to the point where she is establishing point and standing still while allowing gunners to walk into shooting range. That’s good enough for VJP/NA level pointing. Then the rest of this will get worked out as we go through the process of steadying to flush/shot/fall.

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Force Fetch Class Enrolling Now!

Gretchen has a number of her A-litter v.d. Wildblumen handlers preparing their dogs for VJP right now. A very common time to start force fetch is immediately after puppy tests (JGHV VJP and NAVHDA NA) are completed. So we’re putting on a force fetch course both in person at our training facility and online. Each class will be live streamed via Google Meet, and recordings will be made available to participants.

Over about the last decade I’ve helped clients put retrieves on dogs ranging from German Shorthaired Pointers to German Shepherd Dogs, Labrador Retrievers to Pitbulls. When you deal with a variety of breeds you encounter a lot of problems (and have to find solutions) that a person with a background exclusively in one type of dog might not.

This course will cover:

  1. The core force fetch process with the following options:

    1. Using exclusively pressure and praise, or in combination with food rewards.

    2. Using an ear pinch, or a slip collar as the means of applying pressure.

  2. Remote collar overlay

  3. Force to pile

  4. Water force

  5. Retrieving problems that aren’t actually retrieving problems

We’ll discuss how to bring along exercises that require a retrieve (dragged game tracks, duck search) before you have a reliable one. Upon completion of the course, dogs will be prepared for enforcement of obedience on marked retrieves on land and water, and to begin drills for blind retrieving (3 handed casting, single T…), as well as duck search.

The course is 8 lessons, with some bye weeks built in to allow time for folks to catch up if they get a little behind. Because every dog and handler learns at their own pace, I’ll continue to offer support including reviewing video of your training sessions and answering questions via email even after the class ends.

The cost is $200 for an in-person spot (limited to 8), and $150 for an online spot (limited to 20). If you are a member of my Ko-Fi page, there is a discount code for 10% off this course.

SIGN UP HERE

Remote Collar Training: Conditioning "Move Toward Me"

After the dog has been conditioned to “GO” in response to remote collar stimulation, we immediately begin to condition them to “COME” in response to the same sensation. Doing these actions back to back helps ensure the dog does not get any one behavior too deeply associated with the remote collar stimulation before conditioning of other actions has occurred.

We make sure to remove the landmark used during the conditioning of the send away to help limit confusion. We then follow the same process:

  1. Teach recall using a long line, chain training collar and treats first.

  2. Add remote collar stimulation to each rep, turning the stimulation off when the dog starts heading toward us.

  3. When we get a clear “move toward me” response to remote collar stimulation only, without needing to use the leash to help, we add the verbal command.

  4. We fade out the remote collar stim, knowing that there will be plenty of opportunities to reinforce the behavior with the remote collar in the field and during other proofing exercises.

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Remote Collar Training: Conditioning "Move Away From Me"

This clip covers conditioning "GO", move away from me, the send away. We spent about ten minutes teaching this with a leash, chain collar, and treats, before layering remote collar over top of the skill.

We see a lot of problems stem from the remote collar being used as a brake pedal before it's taught as a gas pedal. So we condition "move away from me", "move toward me", and "move with me" before we condition "stop moving".

With pet dogs we often start with recall. But with sporting dogs we don't want their first thought to be "stop" or "go back to the handler". We want them to be thinking about punching out further for a retrieve or bending with us in the field.

Teaching this skill allows us to work on things like casting and driving to a remote location without having completed force fetch yet. So we can teach concepts that will be used later in force to pile and three handed casting.

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Training System Overview

This is a clip (click the image above) from the first lesson with Otto the Vizsla. Otto’s owners are members of my NAVHDA chapter and they have been dealing with some typical adolescent dog problem behaviors. They live in an apartment so Otto’s vocalizations need to be addressed, as does his selective hearing. But because they will be testing and hunting with him, we need to make sure that we maintain his drive and desire. I am going through an abbreviated training process with them, as I find I am usually able to do with dogs that have solid temperaments and who are fast learners.

Some key takeaways from this video regarding our training system:

  1. Reward Marker - We condition a reward marker, “Yes!” similar to how a clicker trainer would charge a clicker. We use this signal to inform the dog that they did something that earned them a reward. If our rewards are meaningful to the dog, this make them want to repeat the rewarded act again.

  2. Punishment Marker - We also condition a punishment marker, “Out!” that tells the dog they did something for which they will be punished. Our punishment tools are generally either squirting them with water, or tossing a rolled up towel at them. Things that are certainly unpleasant but also very obviously not going to injure the dog in any way.

  3. Pre-Conditioning Markers - Many people try to use markers and the consequences they predict on desirable (or undesirable behavior) prior to conditioning them. This drops the success rate of their use pretty significantly. We are looking for a classically conditioned response to the marker words prior to implementing them in training. This means I should see an obvious excited response to the word “Yes!” and an obvious response that can be defined, perhaps, as “dread” to the word “Out!” before we attempt to use those markers to identify behaviors we want to modify.

  4. Manual Pressure - Using a leash and training collar, and our hands, we physically guide our dogs into positions. Since each action we teach has a distinct and unique application of pressure, there is no confusion. Since we teach with light pressure, when it comes time to apply a corrective level of pressure, the dog is already very clear on what the pressure means and how to control it.

  5. Remote Collar Pressure - After we have taught behavior with a “hands on” approach, we are able to transition to the remote collar and reinforce behaviors using that tool. Since the remote collar feels the same no matter what action we are trying to get from the dog, we have to make sure they have “command discrimination”. This means that they are providing a discriminate (thoughtful and correct) response to the specific command we gave, rather than just throwing out random behaviors to see what sticks.

  6. Dual Reinforcement System - During the introduction and acquisition phases of our training we will use both pressure/force and rewards for each repetition of behavior. This helps the dog see compulsion and guidance that shows them how to get what they want, more so than just a correction for being wrong. It also helps maintain a positive attitude during training, and balances the power and enthusiasm we get from rewards, with the control and responsibility we develop using pressure.

 

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New Mexico & Kansas 2023

You can hear a recap of our New Mexico and Kansas trip on the newly launched podcast, which along with this website, was made possible thanks to our supporters on Ko-Fi.

Hunting Gear MVPs

I was starting to get things organized for our last out of state trip for the season. We’re headed to Kansas and New Mexico to visit some hunting buddies and chase some new and familiar species in some new and familiar places. As I was sorting things out, I thought I’d write something up about the gear I really like, as I always enjoy seeing other peoples’ gear dump posts.

It’s hard to find honest reviews of gear because nowadays everyone with an instagram account and a few thousand followers has opinions about stuff they use that are often biased by the fact that they have some sort of sponsorship agreement with various companies. I started hunting in my mid twenties and have gone through a lot of gear trying to figure out what I like and get things dialed in. This is my current list of gear for hunting with my dogs along with why I like it and comparisons to other items I have used in the past. We don’t have any sponsorships, and the only time I’ve paid less than retail price for anything on this list is when we are a dealer (Dogtra, Dakota283) for the items since we own a companion dog training company, or I just negotiated a better price (Fabarm). I’ll do another one of these during training season focused more on training specific gear.

Dakota 283 Kennels

When my Toyota Tacoma got totaled by a deer on the way home from South Dakota two years ago, I got a full size pickup and opted for a soft topper. Because I lost the ability to lock the bed of my truck, I wanted kennels that locked. I am a big fan of modularity so getting a slide in dog box just didn’t make sense to me, since I still want to be able to use my truck bed for other things. Prior to this I used Ruffland Kennels and I really liked them. But needing a locking kennel, I switched Dakota 283. I like the molded handle on top, which I use to run my ratchet straps through to secure the kennels in the bed of my truck. I use Mud River insulated kennel covers in the winter, but I cut a slit inside of the top zipper pocket so that I could still run my tie down straps through the handle. This setup seems very secure, and the inside of the kennels will be 60 - 70 degrees even when temps are below freezing. I can fit three of the G3 medium kennels sideways, which are plenty big for any sporting breed up to 75 pounds or so, in the 6.5 foot bed of my truck. That leaves storage room behind the kennels, and plenty of room for the dogs to walk to and from the tailgate easily.

Govee Temperature Monitors

I’m currently using Govee temperature monitors between the kennel covers and kennels. These report the temperature and humidity. I’m not very worried about it when we’re stopped, since there are a variety of ways to shade or insulate the truck bed. But I do worry when we are driving that sometimes the bed of the truck gets too hot. The Govee monitors connect to my phone and allow me to keep an eye on that.

Tuff Foot

This is a spray on tincture that is antibacterial and antifungal. It has the added benefit of toughening paw pads. I spray this on my dog’s paws twice a day for about two weeks prior to any multi-day hunting trip to help prevent paw injuries. I also use it as a disinfectant for both paw pads and between toes after every hunt for minor paw cuts and scrapes.

Lewis Dog Boots

When we hunt in the southwest, the sand and rocks are really hard on the dogs’ feet. People who live in that area may be able to condition their dogs’ paws to the point where additional protection is not needed. But since we live on the east coast, and our dogs run primarily on dirt and grass, they need some extra help in the desert to protect against abrasions and puncture wounds. These rubber boots slip on and then are held in place with duct tape so that the dogs don’t wear their pads down on the harsh terrain. The trade off is that they can’t stop and cut as well with the boots on. Having hunted my dogs with and without boots in the desert, I can honestly say they don’t make it past the first hunt without significant paw injuries without boots on. These days I keep multiple spares in the truck because dogs will kick one or two off over the course of a week of hunting.

Garmin Pro 550 Plus

This is the best training collar, in my opinion, that also provides useful gps tracking functionality for hunting. If you are working on steadiness after the shot, removing chase, or any other transitional training during actual hunts, this collar provides quick access to those functions while also providing you with distance, direction, and pointing status so you can keep track of your dog. So it’s got all the things that made the Garmin/Tritronics Pro 550, plus just enough tracking capability to be useful without annoyingly overcomplicated.

Pro tip: Put a tile or air tag on the remote in case you lose it while out hunting. It’s an expensive loss that is easily prevented this way.

Dogtra Pathfinder 2

This is the best gps tracking collar, that also provides training functions. Because I already use OnX maps on my phone, it is easier to just have one device and switch between that app, and the Pathfinder app, which allows my phone to function as my collar remote/tracker. I carry a battery pack to charge my phone, but even during all day hunts I don’t find that the app drains my battery that much. I like this collar when I am hunting in the prairie because I can track the mileage my dog runs, and when I am training duck search since the cover is so dense in the water sometimes that I can’t see my dog when they are more than 30 yards away from me. If you already have Garmin GPS collars, the Alpha handheld provides the same features more or less. I just prefer to carry less devices. You can connect either device to a smart watch, depending on brand.

Boss Shotshells

When we are hunting waterfowl, or upland in a place we might jump shoot waterfowl, or hunting any land that requires nontoxic shot, Boss is our go-to shell. I have been shooting 20 gauge 3 inch #5 and #7 at everything from ducks to pheasants, to various covey birds, and rabbits with great success. The only down side is the cost. At about $1.60 per shell, these are quite expensive, even though they are the cheapest bismuth option I can find.

High Antimony Lead Shotshells

When we are hunting in places where we can shoot lead, its higher density and lower cost makes it a no brainer. Even very high quality loads are significantly cheaper than any bismuth offering. Rather that buying hunting loads, I have been shooting high antimony target loads and having great success. Both Winchester AA and Remington Clay and Field have worked well for me on all manner of upland game. Size 7 shot in lead is plenty for everything as I very rarely shoot past 30 - 40 yards. For woodcock and quail, I’ll go up to 8 shot with very open chokes and have done fine with that combination as well. With ammo shortages and prices surging, I like using AmmoSeek to find good prices on shells.

Final Rise Vest

I’ve owned the Q5 Centerfire, and Chief Upland vests. The Q5 has a lot of annoying velcro and I don’t care for the shoulder straps. The Chief Upland vest covers a lot of area on your torso and does not have great ventilation. The water bottle holders on both vests suck.

I bought the Final Rise vest because I liked its light weight, the ultra thin shoulder straps that don’t sit right where you want to mount your shotgun, and the limited contact from the vest with your body. It combines the best elements of a strap vest and a great load bearing pack. The water bottle holders have a rigid loop around the top so taking bottles in and out of them is very easy.

Now that the brand has expanded to add a number of other modular items, I may switch out the long shell pockets for ones that don’t brush the fronts of my legs as much. I might also get the sidekick pack for training in the summer, so there is even better ventilation and less fabric contacting my back.

Fabarm Elos 2 Elite

My absolute favorite new piece of kit is this gorgeous over under from Fabarm. I added a thicker recoil pad to increase the length of pull a bit. And since the drop is greater at the heel it also helped me get better eye alignment without having to get anything custom done. I can shoot this gun with this setup instinctively very well.

I chose the Fabarm for my first really nice double gun because their fit and finish seems better than some of the bigger name brands like Beretta, for a bit less money. Additionally, they proof their barrels to the highest standard available, 1630 BAR. Fabarm barrels and chokes are pressure tested in this manner to allow the shooter to use steel shot all the way up to full choke constriction. The barrels also feature their “tri-bore” which basically means the barrels are gradually tapered in three steps to help increase shot speed and avoid shot deformation. I don’t know how effective it is, but the barrels are light, contributing to the great balance and low weight of this gun, despite having a solid mid-rib. The solid mid-rib is a great feature since it keeps debris out of the gap that would be there if the barrels had a vented, or deleted, mid-rib.

Finally, the particular wood on this gun is quite pretty, and very unique compared to other versions of the same model that I found advertised for sale. I purchased the gun through Gunbroker and got a decent deal well below MSRP. Fabarm’s customer service is also fantastic.

I’ve already taken woodcock, pheasant, and rabbits with this gun. And I’ll be shooting it on our upcoming trip

 

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North Dakota October 2022

We had a great trip out to North Dakota this year. It was our first year hunting during that time of year. Last year we went in September when sharptail grouse and hungarian partridge were open. This year, in October, waterfowl and pheasants were also open. I think our dogs progressed more on this trip than any other we’ve taken because of the sheer amount of wild bird contacts each of them got during the week of hunting. We haven’t had a “bad” hunting trip yet in terms of bird numbers and overall success. But this was surely the “best” one so far. One of the best parts about hunting North Dakota is that you can hunt all private land that is not posted against tresspassing, either electronically or physically. Often this means you have an overabundance of choices where to hunt. Scouting online using a program like OnX is really helpful to try to pinpoint locations. And as always, you are looking for a combination of habitat, food, and water. In particular, good cover in an area with good food usually means you’ll get into the birds.

When we first arrived at our destination in North Dakota, somewhere west of Fargo, we had enough time in the day to take our first walk of the trip. I put Aura down on a piece of unposted private land that we’ve hunted every time we’ve been out this way. We always see a lot of sharptail grouse on this quarter section and this time was no different. I found out later that the weather and time of year weren’t really conducive to hunting sharptail, and we certainly noticed a lot of them getting up way out ahead of us. But I managed a pair of them before we settled into our cabin for the night.

Our second day we went to a large piece of federal land to look for more sharptail. After a morning of having birds get up 100+ yards in front of us, I got a call from my friend that lives in the area and that’s when I found out that trying to hunt sharpies in that weather during October was probably not going to provide the best chance for success. He pointed us to an area west of where we were and said we should look for pheasants and huns there. We were still getting our bearings, as this was only the second time we’ve hunting wild pheasants, but we did have a successful walk that afternoon, with a nice mixed bag to show for it. Gretchen shot her first (jack)rabbit on this walk. Up until now she’s been concerned about making safe shots on running game on the ground with the dogs in pursuit. I was on the other side of the tree line so I didn’t see how it all played out, but I guess the hare got up far enough away from the dogs that she felt like she had a very safe shot.

I found some good looking PLOTS land over in that area that we hunted the next day. We would return to that same area once or twice more over the week, hunting different sides of the same piece of land, or other areas adjacent to it. I had some success each walk but am still kicking myself for not being ready for the most obvious covey of huns.

If it looks like “The Aura Show,” so far in this post, that’s because it started out that way. Not on purpose, but it seemed like every walk I took with Anja was long and not fruitful. That all changed when we started hitting some spots north of where we were staying. On one morning walk up there, I shot my first ever limit of hungarian partridge hunting tree rows with Anja.

Anja went on to have probably the nicest dog work out of all of our dogs, that ended with a downed bird on the trip, when she pinned this rooster that Gretchen shot over her point. She also shit the bed a bit on one tree line we dubbed, “Bird Heaven”. Just too many bird contacts back to back. I think we pushed three coveys of huns, that kept running and flushing down the tree row, and a dozen or more pheasants that were running down the row as well. Very often I say, “I can’t believe she just did that…” Usually it’s indicative of something impressively good. But sometimes…

Gretchen also shot two huns over her young puppy, from her Wildblumen Kennels A Litter, Archer. Safe to say that little man knows his purpose in life after this trip!

On a walk during our third day of hunting, we didn’t put any of our dogs down, but pushed a big slough with a total of six people including us, and about four dogs down. I hit a rooster that flushed there, but we were having trouble getting dogs to find it. I marked the spot on OnX and planned to return with fresh dogs after the walk was over. I, and another east coast NAVHDA and VDD-GNA member double tapped another rooster that flushed on that same walk. He gave me the bird and said he was there for two weeks and would shoot plenty of them. I haven’t had a chance to catch up with him yet, but I certain hope that turned out to be true. When we got back to the truck we pulled out the Kleine Munsterlander wonder twins, Aura and Ebbi, and put them down in the area I marked for the fallen bird. And we got to witness the results of the JGHV testing system and the emphasis that our breeding and training program puts on recovery after the shot. Those girls searched the area for maybe fifteen minutes and found the bird trying to run away from then under the cattails. These dogs are great all around, but they really excel at tracking.

Later in the week while hunting back up north of our rented cabin, we took a walk with a few friends where we worked wheat fields, tree rows, and sloughs. I ended up with my first limit of roosters that day!

On the day we were scheduled to go home, we decided to take one more walk with our friends Mario and Bill. Turned out to be another good one!

October in the Dakotas is certainly going to be an annual trip for us moving forward. If we could take more, I’d do one in September for sharptails and huns, and another when it’s colder for pheasant. But to maximize one outing to that area per year, I think October is hard to beat! We ended the trip with eight or nine huns, five sharptail, and nine pheasants, minus what we ate while we were out there. A few of our weeknight meals on the trip included sharptail japchae, pheasant tikka masala, and basil lemongrass pheasant.

We got some nice dog work on this trip, even on pheasants. We shot a lot of birds, missed a lot more, and got to experience a few cases of severely bird-drunk dogs, where too many back to back contacts got the best of a dog and they just came a little unglued. Ha ha! Ebbi didn’t come into this trip in great shape after rearing her first litter and keeping a puppy sucking up a lot of her and Gretchen’s time. But she did some great work. I didn’t get to see too much of it, though, since Gretchen and I hunted separately often since she was focused on bird contacts for young Archer. Most of the times we hunted together we were pushing cattail sloughs where we couldn’t see the dogs very well.

The only thing I wanted to do this trip that I wasn’t able to was hunting sandhill cranes. We heard a few of them but just couldn’t find them. We didn’t shoot any waterfowl, actually. You could jump shoot pretty much any pothole you saw, we just didn’t do that for whatever reason.

We’ll be hunting at home for the next few months, with maybe closer weekend trip or two along the way. Then in December or January we’ll be headed southwest again to chase quail, and to breed Aura for the Wildblumen Kennels B litter.

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Wesensfestigkeit

I am sharing an article from the JGHV director of testing with permission from one of the board members of the KlM-GNA breed club. The article discusses stable temperament which is an increasingly important topic for working and companion dogs alike, but perhaps most important for dogs that are asked to pull double duty like our companion gundogs. They live in the home with us year round, and hunting season only occupies about half of that time.

For all the talk of drive in working dogs there isn’t enough conversation about nerve, elasticity, and temperament in general. As always, it’s helpful to define those terms, not so that we can necessarily get agreement on a definition, but so you know what I mean when I say something.

  • Nerve: the dogs ability to resolve internal and external conflict in a thoughtful manner. The distinctly higher threshold before the parasympathetic nervous system (elicited fight/flight/freeze reactions) engages, and the lack of those reactions in contexts where they are obviously not warranted.

  • Elasticity: the dogs capacity to “bounce back” emotionally from a stimulus that does engage the parasympathetic nervous system.

  • Temperament: the dog’s genetically imparted personality, ability to match the appropriate drive and level of intensity for the situation.

Some dogs seem to be out looking for a fight every time see a dog or person. Others seem to think everything in the world is scary. Others still get overstimulated at the slightest things. All of these are examples of poor temperament, and that is a product of breeding choices. When people make statement like, “There are no bad dogs,” my only response is: “Your criteria for ‘good’ must be awfully low.”

Dogs practicing down stay while others are sent on marked retrieves with gunfire.

Every type and breed has been selectively developed for a job and within each breed there are individuals that are particularly well suited, or not, for that intended purpose. Being a pointer is a different job than being a retriever. And being a versatile is a different job than both of those aforementioned. Being a companion is also a job. A dog that you can’t take into most social situations isn’t a very good companion. A dog that you have to shield heavily from becoming gun-shy isn’t a very good gundog. A dog that is spooked by or weary of of everything, despite never having a negative experience anything, usually ends up with a resentful owner regardless of how well intended the owner was when they took on a self-limiting and ultimately unsolvable problem. And any dog that has trouble doing their intended work with a clear head is not an ideal example of that breed.

News from the JGHV Director of Testing

Stable Temperament (Wesensfestigkeit)

exceptional calmness, despite fiery passion and speed

Dear friends of the hunting dog. When I received the article below from Mr. Konrad Andreas about Mr. Eike Behrens some time ago, I had the feeling that time had stood still. Already 50 years ago, there was concern with the subject of a strong temperament. I ask myself why we have not managed to come to grips with this issue over this long period of time. Especially the inner calmness is missing in all our hunting dogs at present. Despite all the problems in today's dog breeding and handling of hunting dogs, this must be one of the highest goals of the hunting dog movement. Our society, as well as hunting and the handling of hunting dogs has changed a lot since 1969, but still our goal, the preservation of hunting, the handling of a healthy, high performance, game-sharp, calm and temperamentally strong hunting dog must be our highest goal.

Dear readers of Der Jagdgebrauchshund. First of all, a big thank you to Mr. Konrad Lorenz who wrote this report and also to Eike Behrens who made this report available. I have shortened the report a bit, as the report was focused on single dogs or kennels, and I have deleted these names, because the words apply to the overall breeding of the Jagdgebrauchshund. I hope you enjoy reading this report and wish you success in the breeding and handling of your hunting dogs.

Excerpt from the book by Konrad Andreas "Der Hund - mein Waidgesell" Studien am Hund, Erinnerungen an Hunde.” ("The Dog - my Hunting Companion" Studies on the Dog, Memories of Dogs.") With the kind permission of the JGHV magazine "Der Jagdgebrauchshund".

By firmness of temperament, we mean the inner balance by virtue of which the dog, which has not been trained, cannot be easily shaken by external influences. The nerves of such a dog are sound; they provide the dog with the calmness which makes it so pleasant to handle. This calmness must therefore not be confused with being phlegmatic; it has nothing to do with lethargy! It is rather a mental balance, the expression of that splendid firmness, which also puts its stamp on a dog's work. Such dogs, if they also have good hunting abilities and are properly prepared and handled, can be counted on.

Ingrained fearfulness, aggressiveness, biting out of fear, unsettled excitement, fear of gunfire and thunderstorms, as well as jumpy reactions to anything unfamiliar are defects of temperament and, as such, characteristics of weakness of temperament. They impair the dog's ability to cope with the environment. It is obvious that this lack of mental stability must not only reduce the dog's ability to train and perform, but under certain circumstances may even jeopardize the dog's ability to perform at all. Therefore, weakness of temperament as a sign of malformation and a damaging factor must never be disregarded in breeding. As a matter of principle, it must result in the exclusion of such dogs from breeding. Just as, conversely, special importance must be given to deliberate breeding for temperament.

Health, performance, strong nerves, and superb calmness, in spite of intense passion and speed - these are the most important requirements for a hunting dog. These are the very dogs that trainers call a good gundog. Just as with humans there are skilled and unskilled candidates for examinations. Just as there are students who, despite great knowledge, fail in the test because their anxiety and nerves make them self-conscious and inhibit their answers, there are dogs who are infected by a nervous, anxious handler and made insecure in their performance. Dogs that cannot be made to lose their composure by anything and do not quiver with excitement even at the sight of game, but still continue to maintain their composure, are not struggling in their collars, but wait to be called up to work, this is called natural calmness - combined with temperament and speed.

Regardless of the service (use) of the dog, whether as a messenger, guard, tracking dog, or as a hunting dog, they must have the right abilities for the intended use. In spite of all the differences that exist, for example, between guard, tracking or hunting dogs in their special abilities, the basic condition for the fitness of all these dogs must be their absolute strength of character. In his book "So kam der Mensch auf den Hund" (3rd ed. Vienna 1951), which is worth reading, the well-known behavioral scientist Professor Konrad Lorenz writes the following lines:

"It is sad, but not to be denied that a strict selective breeding for physical characteristics cannot be reconciled with selective breeding for mental characteristics. Individuals who meet all the requirements on both sides are rare, so that they could be used as a basis for further breeding ... Even if a dog breeder aims at the strictest breeding selection for both aspects, they will not succeed in practice without compromises. In earlier times, when the dog was still largely a working animal and when fashion played a secondary role, there was no danger that mental qualities were neglected in the selection of breeding animals ... However, the situation becomes really bad when the almighty tyrant fashion, presumes to dictate to the poor dog what he should look like. There is not a single breed of dog whose original excellent mental qualities have not been destroyed completely as soon as it became the "great fashion". Only if in some quiet corner of the world the dogs concerned were further bred as working animals, irrespective of their becoming fashionable, could this disaster be prevented. In our four-legged companions, we hunters seek not only a friend, but also a bit of nature. However, only a dog that is healthy and balanced both physically and mentally can offer us this in the most natural way possible. Dealing with nervous, mentally defective dogs has a demoralizing effect, which affects even the calmest mind in the long run."

As we know from experience, such deficiencies can also appear in a breeding selection which is exclusively and strictly directed towards practical use. Even if the temperament of the dog may often be very different in the individual, in general it must still correspond largely to the purpose for which it is to be used. However, weakness of temperament, wherever and however it may appear, is, as already noted, an unmistakable sign of malformation. And this must be prevented by not using such dogs, at least not for breeding. Only the best is good enough for breeding.

This is especially true with regard to the hereditary determination of health. Mens sana in corpore sano! Whatever is not fully acceptable for breeding should be abandoned. A dog can be trained to be calm only to a limited extent. It has it or it does not have it. If it is missing, however, then all art applied in the training of the dog will fail because of the dog's innate agitation. Calmness, the calmness that allows the dog to cope with all difficulties and never become agitated and fidgety, must be in the dog's blood. Only then can the dog develop into a helper that can be relied upon after the correct preparation and when properly handled - provided, of course, that it also has the other characteristics that we desire in a hunting dog: a good nose, the desire to find and, as a result, the inherited "urge to go forward" as well as the necessary sharpness.

The sign of a dog with a strong temperament is its unshakeable calmness and unconditional reliability. What such dogs have "eaten" once, sticks. They can then be trained relatively quickly to do something that they are not used to doing. The dog may be a messenger dog or a guard dog, a herding dog or a hunting dog, but in any case, the special professional qualities of the dog, as a foundation for practical use, include strength of character. In other words: Natural abilities of any kind can only be developed fully on the basis of innate strength of character. It is the mark of healthy nerves. And these are a basic condition for a breeding dog, or at least they should be.

Breed clubs everywhere should have trusted advisors - people who are so beyond reproach in their character, and so firm and incorruptible in their objectivity, that they will not lie to themselves. The Breed Warden depends on their help. They are needed to determine the true breeding value of all the dogs in their area. Only in this way can they fulfill their duties as breeding advisors to the greatest possible extent. A characteristic that cannot be appreciated and observed enough in the working dog is strength of temperament.

Every Breed Warden should try to identify this in practice as carefully and thoughtfully as possible. During a public test, this is usually only possible to a limited extent, but it is most likely where the assessment is carried out by the same Judges in every subject. It would therefore be a good idea if, in the future, the overall picture of each dog that passes the test could be clearly summarized in as few words as possible, but with as much content as possible. The temperament of the dog should never be judged frivolously and only if a clear impression can be formed. In such a case, however, without doubt, regardless in which direction. What is written must be indisputable, as a breeder you must be able to rely on it. What is at stake here is the nerve and backbone of our performance breeding.

Josef Westermann

JGHV Director of Testing

Link to the original file

The book by Konrad Lorenz, translated to English, is titled, “Man Meets Dog.”

This is the reason why temperament evaluations in puppies are helpful in understanding inherent shortcomings and strengths in each dog. It is best when the amount of actual conditioning and training is limited prior to evaluation so that you are actually evaluating, as best you can, the dog’s true temperament. It is also very important to remember that such evaluations reflect a point in time. Dogs will develop along different timelines and there is a lot of room for early developmental work to determine where a dog lands in any given trait, understanding that genetics set the upper and lower bounds of what is possible for that individual.

Here is an example of the temperament testing that Gretchen did for the puppies in her Wildblumen Kennels A litter of Kliene Munsterlander puppies. The puppy, later named Archer and kept by Gretchen, is put through a battery of tests looking at prey drive, cooperation, forgiveness, tolerance to discomfort, startle response, and a number of other things. These responses are tested with the breeder, and a stranger that has never met the puppies to compare the difference in interaction. Finally, the evaluator has also never seen any of the puppies so that their assessment can be as unbiased as possible. Of particular note, to me, in this video is the puppy’s willingness to engage with the stranger, and the lack of concern during events that would startle many young puppies, aside from the obvious indications that this dog has the right raw material to be a very capable hunting dog.

Beyond puppy testing, which not all breeders do, the JGHV has two natural ability evaluation tests that serve to verify the soundness of dogs to perform their duties as hunting companions:

  • VJP - Spring Natural Ability Test which ideally tests a dog that has had hunting exposure, but not too much formalized training

    • Gunfire sensitivity

    • Field search

    • Pointing

    • Tracking of live rabbit

  • HZP - Fall Advanced Natural Ability Test which tests a dog that has some training, including force fetch

    • Marked retrieve with gunfire

    • Blind retrieve

    • Search behind a live duck

    • Gamebird drag

    • Rabbit drag

Additionally there is the VGP which is the association utility test. This test includes much more obedience and has a variety of subjects that require the dog to be independent or cooperative, express drive or cap drive, and challenge the dog’s versatility both in behavior and affect. You can read detailed descriptions of each of these tests here.

At each of these tests the dog is also evaluated on general temperament, and undergoes a physical evaluation that also serves as an opportunity to ensure the dog is not sharp toward people. Yet even with these tests we see dogs that are lacking in nerve, or do not settle well, or otherwise are unstable in various tasks. A senior judge recently recalled a VGP test where all of the dogs entered were out of control on the driven hunt exercise. This exercise has dogs in a down stay along the edge of the woods while people are walking through the woods making noise and firing shots. This could certainly be a temperament issue, or it could be lack of obedience and neutrality work in training.

For those breeders and handlers that do take their dogs all the way through the tests, it reflects a 2 - 3 year commitment. And spending that much intentional time with a dog during hunting and training seasons ensures you know them very well. Yet the wildcard factor is whether or not the breeder will be ruthless enough to cut dogs from their breeding program if they fall short of the ideal temperament, even if they can pass all the tests. But even that needs to be balanced against the fact that no dog is perfect. Lastly, handlers who own dogs from systems that work so hard to produce good dogs should feel obligated to participate in the tests that help ensure that what the club has built continues to be improved. If you see the value in the dogs the system produces, participate in the system so that it keeps producing dogs of value.

In any case, I think that being good at evaluation of temperament and being a good trainer are skill sets that go hand in hand. I cannot imagine how one could excel in one but not the other. Otherwise how can you tell excitability that comes from lack of impulse control (a training issue) or from hyper fixation and over arousal (a temperamental issue)? How can you determine if you are dealing with lack of nerve or lack of confidence? What about operant aggression versus an innate desire to do harm?

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Reward based retrieve training

In the training of the retrieve, commonly called “force fetch,” pressure is used to communicate to the dog that they need to perform a specific action: get the retrieving object in their mouth. Your dog can learn this concept through the exclusive use of negative reinforcement, meaning as long as the timing of the onset of pressure (ear pinch, toe hitch, e-collar) and the removal of that pressure are correct, the dog learns that they must take the object into their mouth to return to a state of comfort from a state of discomfort.

The problem, when not done tactfully, with this approach is that the dog has to be put great under stress and discomfort to learn the action that resolves those things. Wouldn’t you prefer to be taught a skill in a less stressful way before the stakes were raised in that manner? As I have watched a number of new handlers work through force fetch with their dog (and some seasoned folks as well) a common thread I see is a lot of scolding when the dog fails, but not a lot of teaching the expectations first. Shoving something in your dog’s mouth, and then hollering “No!” at them or getting rough with them when they drop it, isn’t teaching. And “No!” doesn’t inform the dog of what they should do. Whenever we train, we work to make sure that our “corrections” do just that… make the dog correct. If your correction does not either return the dog to compliance, or allow the dog to think their way back into compliance, it is not a correctly applied correction.

By teaching skills with positive reinforcement first, we can create competency in, and desire to perform, a behavior prior to applying compulsion (that we must use if we want true reliability) as a means to enforce compliance. This is easiest to do with puppies because:

  1. They are always hungry so we can use food as our reward relatively easily.

  2. They already want to bite everything so teaching them that biting a specific thing earns them additional rewards is also a pretty easy thing to do.

In the video below (from a week or two ago), Gretchen is working on hold conditioning with Archer. It’s important to remember that the retrieve is a compound behavior. This means that it has multiple parts that are best taught in isolation first, and then brought together to form the complete behavior. A retrieve consists of these components:

  1. A send away to a remote location - Gretchen has been working on this with Dixie Cup Drills and teaching the action of Kennel, which means the dog is to leave her side and move toward an elevated surface like a training table or dog bed.

  2. The act of picking an object up off the ground - This is the actual “fetch” part of the behavior. Depending on how deep you want to get, you can spend a lot of time teaching “correct” gripping of a variety of objects based on size, shape, and material makeup.

  3. The carrying of that object while moving - This blog post is covering just the first steps of teaching this process, a stationary hold, before working on holding something while moving.

  4. A recall - Returning to the handler and presenting the retrieved object, stylized in a specific way to meet the needs of the task.

This next video is her working on the same exercise with Archer after a couple sessions. You’ll see his understanding of the task has greatly increased and the component behaviors are much more refined.

Aside from teaching the dog what to do in advance of using aversive consequences for failure to do it, teaching these skills with the use of markers (Gretchen is using a clicker) first sort of frames the problem in a different way.

  • If I use force to teach a skill, I am sort of using a GPS method of training, meaning the dog follows a prescribed path to completion of the behavior. There is nothing wrong with this except that it removes “creativity” and often creates a less free thinking dog. You know when you started using a GPS you forgot how to get places without relying on the GPS. And when you got a cell phone that stores phone numbers, you no longer remember most phone numbers. Reliability and control comes at the expense of passion and creativity.

  • When I use marker training with rewards, I am only defining the result that will earn the dog a reward. This means I am giving them the “destination” but leaving it up to them to invent a way to get there. There is nothing wrong with this except that if I am not careful, I will pick up impurities in the behavior that I may not like. And if I reward repetitions of the behavior with those impurities too many times, they become really hard to remove later. Passion and creativity come at the expense of reliability and control.

  • When I combine the use of force and rewards, I am helping the dog understand that they must do what I command, but I leave value in the task for the dog. We always make sure that the hope outweighs the struggle, and that we aren’t pushing the dog further than we’ve seen them pulled by the enticement of reward. In this way we keep the passion, creativity, reliability, and control in constant tension. And it is just that… a balancing act that will be different for each dog. Some need more carrot. Some need more stick.

Part of the reason hunting dog trainers get away with using so much compulsion and so little rewards in training is because when they begin using game instead of bumpers, a well bred hunting dog finds game rewarding. I had an old timer tell me he didn’t need to use my “gimmicks” to train his dog. What he’s not understanding is that we’re doing the same thing, I just plan better and am more methodical, and I can extract concepts from training exercises and apply them in other places. This skill allows you to solve problems when they come up, because you aren’t beholden to a recipe or a paint-by-numbers approach.

If you don't understand the principles you will be a slave to techniques

- Pat Nolan

So as with most things, my opinion is that the correct answer is not one extreme or the other, but rather a combination of both. Gretchen has begun conditioning a prong collar with Archer, and will likely begin e-collar conditioning in the next week or two as well. These will not be used very often for the next few months, but they provide gentle ways she can introduce compulsion to the puppy in such mild ways that he learns to interpret them as guidance that leads him to rewards, rather than a reprimand. Done correctly, this is an involuntary classically conditioned response to the application of pressure. If every application of discomfort is mild, and it regularly is followed by a reward, then the discomfort becomes a predictor of the reward. Bart Bellon calls this training approach “NePoPo”. Pat Nolan calls it “Push Pull Training in Drive.” Bill Koehler just called it “dog training”. Like everything else in dog training, there is nothing new under the sun. But you do see the common thread that all top level trainers take this approach, whether the know it or not, of using force and rewards in this fashion.

The approach shown in this video is called, “shaping". There are varying degrees of shaping, but basically they all are forms of discovery learning (where the dog comes upon the “right answer” accidentally at first) and then refines their behavior with additional reps over time. You’ll see that Gretchen using some body language cues to guide Archer back onto the platform, and is actively encouraging him with her behavior to mouth the retrieving object. We usually do this, or use some form of physical molding (putting our hands on the dog to manipulate their body in some way) because it is typically more efficient than waiting around for the dog to pick the one thing we want to reward out of an infinite number of possible behaviors. The gradual increasing or changing of the criteria that will earn the puppy a reward is called, “successive approximation.” This means the dog is refining the behavior more and more to look like the behavior we have as our end goal. It is an iterative process and it rarely proceeds in a purely linear fashion. Often the dog will hit rough patches where we have to backtrack or switch to a different training modality to push through that plateau.

Prerequisite Skills

  1. Your dog needs to be conditioned to a reward marker.

Equipment needed for this exercise

  1. A leash on the dog to keep your student from leaving the “classroom”.

  2. An object that is comfortable for your dog to hold in their mouth.

  3. Food rewards that your dog likes, a lot.

  4. A clicker is optional. If you prefer to just use a verbal marker, you can use any single syllable word that is succinct. I also recommend you say it with inflection in your voice that is different from your normal conversational tone. I say “yes,” but I go up in the pitch of my voice. This way my dogs don’t think it’s party time every time the word “yes” comes out of my mouth in a normal tone of voice.

Training area needed for this exercise

  1. You can do this in your living room, or on your tailgate, or on a training table. With puppies, pretty much every control/obedience based behavior is easier to do on an elevated surface because it saves your back. Sitting or kneeling on the floor with your puppy encourages too much horseplay.

Goals for this exercise

  1. To get your puppy to calmly hold the object for extended periods of time.

How to perform this exercise

  1. Hold the object in front of your dog’s face. As soon as they show any interest in it (that could be sniffing it, touching it with their nose, mouthing it, or even just looking at it), mark the behavior and then reward the dog with food.

  2. After a few reps, 3 - 5 usually, begin asking for slightly more from your dog. We are trying to exploit a bit of frustration from the dog to get them to engage with the object more. If they just looked at the object the first few times, maybe now they poke it with their nose. If they were already putting their mouth on it, perhaps now we wait a little longer to see if they will keep their mouth on it for a full second rather than for just a fraction of a second.

  3. Continue gradually increasing your criteria as your dog is showing investment in interacting with the object.

  4. It doesn’t matter if your dog “does it right”. It just matters that they are trying and moving from where they started to something that looks closer to the ultimate goal.

What’s Next

You can see in the video that Archer begins to carry the object rather than just hold it. We sort of just take what they give us when they give us more than we asked for. Gretchen will formalize expectations over time, begin incorporating mild pressure in a way that is distinct for this exercise, and work on other component pieces of the retrieve. For example, Archer already will chase thrown objects, pick them up, and (usually) bring them back (at least to the general vicinity of the handler). These shaping exercises help to condition and refine the finer motor skills needed for nice retrieving. So he already does it, but we’re trying to teach him specifically how to:

  • hold the object in his mouth calmly without chewing or rolling it around, with a deep and full grip for larger objects, and just behind the canine teeth for smaller objects

  • as much as possible, be as enthusiastic on the return with the object as he is being sent for the object

  • to assume a consistent position when arriving back at the handler with an object, either directly in front of the handler and facing the handler, or at heel position next to the handler

  • to have an accommodating head position when presenting the retrieving object, facing the handler rather than looking away from them which indicates a level of possessiveness

  • to have a very clear signal for when to let go of the object

Each of these things will be worked on individually, and brought together over time as the retrieve is formalized. Some of it will be done prior to the force fetch process with Archer. Other parts will be focused on during that force fetch training.

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Advanced retrieving concepts for puppies

One of the most helpful things we’ve learned from following some of Pat Nolan’s work is the idea that you should introduce your puppy to all the skills and concepts they’ll need later on in life during their critical development period (up until 16 - 20 weeks of age). This runs counter to a lot of hunting dog training advice that just says to “let the pup be a pup.” Following that advice will have you squandering the only time in that dog’s life where it absorbs information like a sponge and comes to understand things not as learned behaviors, but just, “this is how life works.” That’s not to say the young pups shouldn’t have time to explore and be independent. It just means you can introduce everything you’ll need your puppy to do when they grow up, right now, in a reward based way, with a few modifications.

His “Dixie Cup” drills are a great example of this. These drills teach send away, recall, marking, lining, memories, and steadiness at the line. These are all retrieving concepts but they are taught, here, without the puppy having to retrieve anything at all.

By using a paper plate, dixie cup, or as Gretchen is doing, a soup can, you can teach your dog the concepts of lining, send out, and recall without the dog actually completing a retrieve. This can be very helpful for a few reasons. First, the young puppy may not show much interest in picking things up and show even less interest in bringing anything back to you. Second, the young puppy may be very sloppy in their handling of retrieving objects. In both cases, I can teach concepts that I will need later without allowing my puppy to practice bad habits that I will have to fix later.

Gretchen uses a soup can with the label turned inside out because the inside of the label is white. Later on we’ll use white buckets to line the dog up on blinds. This conditions the dog to be looking out for white objects and associating them with rewards. She places a piece of food on the can, shows Archer that the reward is there, and then backs up so he has to cover ground to get to the reward. Once he eats the treat, she begins making noise to encourage him to return to her, where he then is rewarded again.

When this drill is going well, Gretchen adds additional soup cans to start working doubles and triples. Doing so helps the dog start building a memory for a second and third reward, which will turn into the memory for a second bird/bumper later on. It also helps build discrimination skills in lining, meaning the dog starts learning they are expected to go in the direction the handler points them.

Equipment needed for this exercise

  1. Soup cans, paper plates, or plumbing drains: Basically anything white that can hold a piece of food. These objects give the dog a defined location to go to. Using white helps condition the dog to look out for that color and anticipate finding things of value near it.

  2. High value food reward: Use treats your dog really likes and run these drills before meal time when they are most hungry.

  3. A check cord or equipment to make running lanes: You should have some way to help the dog go in the correct direction on send outs and returns. That can be a check cord, but using other objects as barriers to form lanes works better for this early work.

Training area needed for this exercise

You can do this training in your home. Use a hallway first, and then when you start doing doubles, just place your second soup can 180 degrees from the first. When you start triples, have the third can form a 90 degree angle from the line created by the first two.

Goals for this exercise

  1. Get the puppy to start looking out in front and locking in on white destinations.

  2. Get the puppy to settle briefly before being released to get their reward.

  3. Get the puppy to take a straight line to the destination and a straight line back to you.

  4. Start working on your puppy’s ability to remember multiple reward locations.

How to perform this exercise

  1. Place your soup can at the end of a hallway and put a treat on top of it.

  2. Hold your puppy and stick their nose close to the treat then back away from the soup can so they can keep their eyes on it the whole time.

  3. Hold the puppy’s front feet off the floor and wait for them to stop wiggling and settle.

  4. Release the puppy to go get their reward off of the soup can when they are visually locked on to the destination.

  5. Make exciting noise to entice the puppy to return to you and give them a reward for coming back to you.

  6. To work doubles, set up a second soup can 180 degrees from the first. Put treats on both, letting the puppy lock on to each one. Send your puppy to the treat you put down last, then send them to the one you put down first.

  7. To work triples, set up a third soup can so that you make a T. Follow the same rules as doubles. The puppy should be sent to the last treat put down first, and then do the remaining treats in the opposite order that you placed them down.

Troubleshooting common issues

  1. Puppy is not locking on to the target: Don’t move so far away from the target after placing the treat on it. After a few reps at shorter distance, begin gradually moving further away.

  2. Puppy won’t come back to you: Go to the puppy, stick a treat in front of their nose, and then back up so that they follow the treat toward you. After a few reps they’ll start understanding they can get paid for going and for coming back.

  3. Puppy is not interested in the treats: Get food your dog likes, and make sure that you work these exercises before meal time, not after.

When am I ready to move on?

Start doubles when your dog is succeeding at all the goals listed above on singles. Begin triples when doubles are as confident and smooth as singles.

What’s next?

You can work on things a bit and then come back to them later. If your puppy can do soup can triples confidently and seems to be building a good memory, it might be a good time to start trying to shape a formal retrieve with positive reinforcement. Alternatively, you could start working on sending your dog to training platforms as another way to teach them lining to a remote location. And finally, you can wait until you have completed force fetch and then set up similar drills having your dog retrieve bumpers instead of looking for treats.

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